If you ask most people to describe their favorite part of Thanksgiving dinner, chances are they’ll wax poetic over grandma’s famous stuffing, pumpkin pie, or even that oddly appealing green bean casserole. I beg to differ. What’s the single most important part of my Thanksgiving meal? Turkey stock.
No, I’m not crazy. I understand that turkey stock will never garner a starting position on your buffet. But don’t underestimate its subtle role in harmonizing the individual players into a spectacular, unified meal. It takes a little bit of planning on your part–I always make it a few weeks in advance and pop it in the freezer–but when the big day comes, it’s money in the bank. I’ll use that stock for the gluten-free gravy, moistening the stuffing, basting the turkey as it cooks, and even for steam/sautéing vegetables like green beans and Brussels sprouts. Turkey stock adds richness and body to everything it touches; you just can’t get that from canned broth.
Start off by paying a visit to the butcher’s counter at your local supermarket. This is the one time of year they generally display turkey parts: drumsticks and thighs (my beloved dark meat), wings, etc. More esoteric groceries will even sell packages of necks and backs for us die-hard stock makers. (If they aren’t packaged, ask the butcher. They almost always have them in back and they’re cheap.) I find a combination of necks, backs, and wings makes a perfect mix for stock; they provide the right amount of flavor and collagen to the broth, yet remain inexpensive enough to toss when the broth is done simmering. Since it’s hard to find turkey parts the rest of the year—I’m not buying a whole turkey to make stock—I really take advantage of them now. It’s not uncommon for me to make ten batches of turkey stock in November and hoard it in my freezer for later. If you’ve never made soup from homemade turkey stock, I promise it is one of the most comforting bowls around!
Take your turkey goodies home and break out one of those large pots you only use around the holidays. The first thing I do is brown the turkey pieces/bones in a bit of oil right in the pot. (You can also roast them in the oven on a baking sheet at about 375° until browned. I like to avoid the extra dirty pan, though.) Do this in batches if necessary. If you crowd the turkey together it will steam instead of browning. Realistically you can skip the browning and make a “white” turkey stock, but if I plan on making gravy, I prefer the richness of the “brown” turkey stock. If you’re making the broth to use for soup, throw in a turkey leg or two for even more flavor.
At this point, add the water, bay leaf, onion, and celery, bring it to a boil, then reduce it to a simmer for about two hours. Very little attention is needed at this point; the stock cooks itself. You can go about your business while the house smells of an early Thanksgiving. When the stock finishes simmering, either strain it through a fat separator or strain it into a few large bowls and refrigerate it overnight. The next day, you can literally peel the layer of fat right off the top (an immensely satisfying task) and discard it. I usually ladle the stock into quart-size containers, label them, and put them in the freezer.
If you’ve never tried your hand at homemade turkey stock before, give it a try. I think you’ll be as hooked as I am. Do you have other Thanksgiving “secret weapons” to share? Let us know in the comments section. ~LbR
